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I've seen that, depends what you are trying to do. The bad thing about sealant is if there is a leak behind it and you can't see it, you may be getting rot there and not know it.
Replacing sealant isn't THAT hard. If you want to spruce the colour up like remove black spots, if the area around it will take it, try (possibly strong) bleach on it? All these mildew removers etc really seem to be is that anyway. Bleach on those black spots can work wonders. |
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Ive bought this recently but not used it yet
had a right job doing the bath with the gun put far too much down and it was an absolute b itch to clear up |
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Apparently the advice is not to rub it into a corner with your finger, but to leave it as it is after you've filled the corner.
I can see the logic in that because using your finger creates a feather edge where the silicon can start to lift. I must admit I always use my finger because the finished job looks better. |
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Thanks for the replies. It's to do my shower as the sealant is pealing away and I dont want water going down the gaps. I know when you use original sealent it's best to smooth it out with your finger in some warm Fairy Liquid water.
Will give it a go in the hope that it lasts a few years. |
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* Apparrently this stuff is mould proof.
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*Apparently.
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If you spray glass cleaner on it before using the finger to smooth it off, it is easier to remove excess, stewarty b.
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Easier to watch things than read about em imo. There will be others if this is no good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHwmqkoz1tE |
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Using a wet finger to smooth over I find helps a lot. Baby wipes are a godsend for clearing up sealant from fingers and bath walls. Like everything preparation is key.
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I have ocd and had to reseal my bath recently, it was my worst nightmare, the sealant line had to have a tolerance of + - 1 mill with a laser line, yea it took me two weeks to finish and 9 tubes of sealant but I got there. Taking the old sealant off was easy but if any tiny parts were left it caused the new sealant to slightly bubble, I had to use double sided shaving razors to scrape along the tiles while wearing magnifying glasses so that every last bit was gone. I'm glad it's over now.
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I am also quite oc when working. Probably quicker and more accurate for a novice to use masking tape, or the window spray if you are confident of an even size bead. The spray stops any of the excess caused by smoothing, from sticking to anything else.
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Yes saddo, masking tape is a must.
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Mega88.
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+ - 1 mill with a laser line.
Rough arse job then? |
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What I can't answer is that if it goes pear shaped again in a few years, will I be able to apply again to look tidy for selling purposes? That would be a big advantage if possible.
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I doubt the sealant quality in a few year will be the main selling point of your house :)
I don't know if I used a good brand last time but I used to have to redo my sealant regularly. I tried that plastic 90' tape stuff but it's sh1t and plumbers do NO recommend it. The last sealant I applied has lasted for ages. I just blob it in (make sure surfaces grease free), the more the merrier. Mega88 would have a FIT if he saw my attempt ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() .It's kind of a similar skill but if you have ever glazed a window, the proper knife with the angle cut across it makes it SO much easier to do a neat job than trying to make do with a normal knife or your finger (!). I wonder if you could use that for sealant actually? It's a thought. |
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I doubt the sealant quality in a few year will be the main selling point of your house :
Trust me, in Scotland you have to pay for a detailed home report survey and they check everything. If you saw one there are over 200 + things you can look up. Piss poor really when it should be the buyer that pays for the survey. |
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Only one thing you need to apply sealant well every time, lots of practice.
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Sealing is not as easy as it looks especially if you want a good finish. You can buy a plastic tool that removes old sealant and also spreads new sealant on giving a good finish, only couple of quid from asda, was no good for the finish I needed hence it went in the bin but good for most bathrooms
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If the gaps are wide or uneven you may want something like this, Wickes sell Homelux Bath Trim. It's about a tenner, can be cut to any length and requires minimal sealant. It's easy to use and the finish looks ten times better than just sealant.
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You all seem to be making a mountain out of a molehill here. Sealing a bath is something an apprentice plumber will be doing in his first week on the job.
Mastic round the bath/shower. Lick your finger and run it over it, wipe excess off on your jeans, then repeat again. If it needs tarting up then give it an hour and use a Stanley knife and a straight edge. I'm guessing the lads on site will be paid about a fiver for doing this, and there'll certainly be no laser levels involved! |
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an apprentice plumber will be doing in his first week
And still making a mess of it the week before he retires if the plumbers I know are any guide. |
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I've been balls deep in sealant and it's not as easy as some make out, yes easy to do a rough job but to get a quality finish all around the edge with zero imperfections you need to be a master Craftsman.
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I hope you have refreshed the grout around the tiles, nothing worse than fresh sealant showing up aged grout.
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There are no tiles involved it's those aqua panels I believe you call them.
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I found less is more with the conventional stuff, a steady constant speed and no fannying around does it.
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Its a bit like carpet fitting
If you mess around and arnt confident you make a right bollax of it |
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I always get someone else to do these sort of jobs, no point at all in fannying around with them yourself.
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Forget silicone, unibond or any other crap - CT1 is the way to go, those in the know use this product, it's the dogs bollocks.
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Foinavon
Foinavon 23 Jul 17 15:11 Joined: 11 Oct 00 | Topic/replies: 7,089 | Blogger: Foinavon's blog I always get someone else to do these sort of jobs, no point at all in fannying around with them yourself. best answer |